Hanky Panky and GoldmanPictures

I recently had the opportunity to photograph the company Hanky Panky, Ltd. Hanky Panky is the creation of Gale Epstein and Lida Orzeck and evolved out of an idea to make lingerie sets from hand-embroidered handkerchiefs. They have since gained an international reputation as makers of the finest in women’s lingerie. The staple of their success is the thong, specifically the 4811 and 4911, the Original Rise and Low Rise thong. Hanky Panky was established in Manhattan and has been manufacturing in the northeast since 1977. My commission was to capture a portrait of the company, its people and processes. Here is a peak behind the scenes.

Patterns Used for Cutting Fabric. Queens, New York. Phase One IQ140 + Schneider 80mm.

First there is an idea, followed by a sketch, then…patterns. Such is the creative process at Hanky Panky. As simple as it seems though, it is a complex process balancing creative vision with market research. The result is a practical and personal product that has won the hearts and minds of women around the world.

Creative Designer. Manhattan, New York. Leica M9P + 50 Summilux.

Park Avenue is the home of Hanky Panky’s corporate and administrative offices, sample room, and showroom. It is also the locus of creativity where designers combine their understanding of market wants with creative vision to develop the latest from everyday wares to the “after midnight” unmentionables.

Sample Room Cutter. Manhattan, New York. Leica M9P + 28 Summicron.

A pattern maker creates the templates for the new designs which are then given to the sample room. Samples are made so that the production team will know exactly what the production garment should look like. Sample making is very similar to production sewing but is done on a much smaller scale and by hand. The samples have to be perfect. Whatever flaws come out of sampling (there are none) could lead to a flawed production run.

The two photos above show the sample room cutter. All the cutting in the Park Avenue office is done either by hand or with manual cutting machines.

Draping. Manhattan, New York. Canon 5d2 + 24-105l.

Next to the cutting tables and in front of the pattern makers are racks of patterns and first run samples. These are the prototypes. To get an idea of fit and look, the creative designers drape mannequins with the latest fabrics and designs. In this photo my assistant was standing in for a shoot in the draping area.

Sample Bra. Manhattan, New York. Leica M9P + 28 Summicron.

Once first run samples are approved, sample sewers begin making the production samples to send to the production sewing facility in Queens.

Sample Sewer. Manhattan, New York. Leica M9P + 28 Summicron.

Sewing machines will combine multiple spools of thread and lace simultaneously. The threads will cross through the air like a spider’s web.

Thread and cut sheets. Manhattan, New York. Leica M9P + 28 Summicron.

The sample making area is wall-to-wall thread and bolts of fabric with cut sheets hanging here and there. The cut sheets specify the details of each sample to be made.

Production Cutting. Queens, New York. Leica M9P + 28 Summicron.

Production cutting is done in Queens. Cutting is an automated process done by a Gerber machine. The cutting tables can run 20 or 30 yards long. The Gerber machine cuts fabric into the pieces specified by the pattern design. The machine cuts many pattern pieces at one time cutting through layers upon layers of fabric. To maintain precision through all the layers, the fabric is overlaid with plastic and it is all pulled tight by a vacuum.

Before the company’s rapid growth following a Wall Street Journal cover story, all cutting was done by manual cutting machines. Automation was necessary to keep pace with demand of the product. The change would have had many companies reducing staff but Hanky Panky felt it important to incorporate manual processes in and around the cutting line preserving jobs, retaining talent and building company loyalty within the employees. The results can be seen in the unbelievable quality of each garment.

Production Cutting. Queens, New York. Leica M9P + 28 Summicron.

The pattern makers in the production facility use computer programs to maximize pattern layout and minimize fabric waste. As the fabric is cut, the marker pattern is pulled out and the cut bundles are stacked, tied and sent to production sewers to sew the garment together. Much of the left over fabric is re-purposed.

Production Sewer. Queens, New York. Leica M9P + 28 Summicron.

Production sewing is done in Queens. Bon Soir is the sewing contractor that occupies space in Hanky Panky’s facility. This is the only part of the operation that is done by a contractor. The samples are brought over from Manhattan and the cut fabric is given in bulk by the production cutters. The garments are then sewn per order in a production line.

Production Line. Queens, New York. Leica M9P + 28 Summicron.

Production Sewer. Queens, New York. Leica M9P + 28 Summicron.

Sewers will hang up a sample with which to compare the final product. The garment is made to last a very long time. Each thong uses over 30 yards of thread. The materials are selected based on stretch qualities, softness and fit. 100% of the fabric used to make the Signature Lace thongs and panties are knitted right here in the USA.

Trim. Queens, New York. Leica M9P + 28 Summicron.

After the garment is finished in production sewing, it leaves the contractor and is sent to the Trim department where it may be embellished with the trim of particular designs such as the Collegiate and Hello Kitty lines.

Quality Control – Trim. Queens, New York. Leica M9P + 28 Summicron.

Every inch of fabric and lace is inspected for quality. Each spool is unwound and checked by hand by an inspector. Flawed pieces are taken out and then the fabric is measured for length and re-spooled.

Tagging. Queens, New York. Leica M9P + 28 Summicron.

After tagging, all products are inventoried and prepared for shipment. Everything is shipped from the Queens warehouse.

Packing and Shipping. Queens, New York. Leica M9P + 28 Summicron.

On May 16th, Hanky Panky launched their highly anticipated Hello Kitty line.

Hello Kitty. Houston, Texas. Leica M6 + 75 Summicron, TRI-X 400

Hanky Panky has an impressive following. From celebrities to the everyday woman, customers are passionate about their Hanky Pankies. The company is also ardent in philanthropic pursuits supporting more than 34 organizations. For more insight visit their blog. For more photos from this project please visit GoldmanPictures.